After exploring Kakadu National Park, Mataranka, Bitter Springs and Daly Waters, we started to head back north to Nitmiluk gorge outside Katherine. We can’t say we really enjoyed our time in Katherine. There was certainly a strong police presence and quite a heavy atmosphere, but as the gateway to Nitmiluk, it was the perfect place to get our supplies before heading to the gorge, and the gorge is truly amazing.
Due to so many awesome travel experiences and amazing locations, there’s just too much for one blog. Our trip is definitely worth two blogs, as there is way too much to share in just one, not to mention the photos. In my many past trips I have found that the NT never lets you down, and this one was just the same.
As I lived in the Northern Territory in the late 1990’s, I’ve spent quite a bit of time travelling around there, but my very well-travelled friend had never been. I was very excited to play tour guide and show her some of my favourite places in Australia. I love visiting the Northern Territory. The desert calls me back every few years, but the tropical Top End also has so much beauty to offer.
We landed in Darwin in what felt like 98% humidity, but it was so good to be in that warm, tropical air after two years of limited travel. We hired a good old Toyota Prado, grabbed some groceries, and headed out of town to Kakadu. Athough most of the roads we were travelling on were sealed, there’s nothing like driving around the territory in a 4WD!
Unfortunately, as it was late April, a lot of waterfalls were closed and at first, we were disappointed. I had been to Gunlom Falls before and was keen to return as it is such a stunning place. However, we soon found that being at Kakadu, at this time of year, presented other possibilities. We woke up extremely early one morning to do a sunrise boat cruise on Yellow River. Being on the water while the birds and animals were waking up, crocodiles were cruising around, and water buffalo were grazing, was a truly beautiful nature experience. The breakfast afterward at Cooinda Lodge was pretty awesome too. Did I mention they had an actual coffee machine and good quality almond milk for this Northern Rivers hippy.
We decided to treat ourselves to a helicopter flight above Kakadu. I’d never been on a helicopter before, and what better place to experience my first ride? There are absolutely no words to describe this experience. The pilot was a lovely, relaxed NT local and suggested we leave the doors open as we fly. With the wind on our faces, we stared open mouthed at the landscape below, taking as many photos as we could, none of which could really capture the sheer beauty that is Kakadu.
After Kakadu we headed south for Mataranka as the hot springs were calling. We enjoyed the Mataranka Hot Springs, but our great surprise discovery was Bitter Springs, just out of town. These hot springs were full of water grasses, so clear and surrounded by lilies along both sides. We laid on our pool noodles and slowly floated along. The water was clear and warm and the natural surroundings were just stunning. It was such a beautiful and peaceful place. I will definitely have to go back.
From Mataranka we did the 1 hour,45 minute drive south along the Stuart Highway to the famous Daly Waters pub. We had both heard about the pub but had no idea what to expect. It was a little hotel in the middle of nowhere with a very big reputation. Our one night there certainly proved to us why this pub is renowned across Australia. The pub itself is eclectic and very ‘Northern Territory’, but the service is top notch and the drinks selection amazing for its remote location.
Our cabin accommodation was clean, comfortable, well maintained and only a short walk from the pub. With the weather in the mid to high 30’s, we headed to the pool (actually they have two!). They also very kindly put whatever drink you buy at the pub into a plastic cup, then you walk through a red door next to the bar counter, and you’re in a large grassed area with plenty of chairs, plastic lounges and two pools. We had found our happy place for the afternoon.
It only got better as the evening wore on. We enjoyed a bottle of delicious Italian Pinot Grigio which we were very impressed to see at a remote pub, and the barramundi dinner was delicious. We ate in the courtyard while listening to the live musicians who played until after 9pm. The evening may have involved me learning some line dancing moves and doing the Nutbush, much to my friend’s dismay. But as the saying goes, when in Daly Waters!
Stay tuned for Part 2.......
